Friday, July 5 Accra

I'm off to Cape Coast today, done with Accra for a few weeks till I return for my flight back to the U.S.
I've spent many hours walking Accra. I've been in good neighborhoods and bad, in the hills and by the seashore. I've taken a few photos but can't access them until I get wifi. I got one photo through somehow, an interesting building I found in the rich part of the city.

One thing seems apparent. The tourist industry in Accra is in decline, if not almost extinct. When I get a chance I'll post two pictures of the erstwhile Afia African Village. It is described as Midrange by Lonely Planet. "One of the nicest places to stay in Accra," opines the book. "Though that might be because with a beachfront location, spectacular views and pretty garden, this doesn't feel like an Accra hotel at all." Now it does, at least to the squatters who reside there presently.

This was once a fine resort on the oceanfront of Accra. Now squatters reside inside.

The shoreline of Accra. No homes, no beaches, nothing but this wasteland.

One of the odd things about Accra is that it really has no seashore. The ocean is there, but there are few buildings oriented to the west. Mostly the littoral is deserted, trashy and desolate. I don't understand why. There must be money to be made there even with the famous undertow that keeps people out of the water.
Several other places that I tried to stay have gone out of business, too. And the places I have inhabited were never near full. Other parts of the Ghana economy seem viable, especially, of course, the banks. They are everywhere, and imposing. Guards out front, lots of parking for the Toyota SUV's that the moneyfolk prefer, multistory structures. They are prospering.
One of the most ubiquitous institutions I've noticed are "micro-credit" banks. That might account for why there are so many small businesses. How many make money I can't tell, but everyone seems to have a business even if it is simply running up and down the highways touting bags of peanuts or sandals. Dakar, by contrast was a city of idleness with most young men either playing soccer or lounging in the sun. In Accra everyone seems to have a function. You can see the influence of the ministers.
"Believe in Yourself"; "It Takes Willpower to Succeed"; "You Can Overcome Those Obstacles". You see this stuff on Tshirts, billboards and graffiti.